I went to the beach today! It was nice and sandy with just a couple rocks.
Oh wait, those aren’t white rocks. That’s snow.
The water looks a bit cold to me, I guess I’ll swim somewhere else. lol.
The word of the day is cold. My second choice would be wind. Today was the coldest riding day so far. I stopped at a closed campground (almost all were closed) and put on my thermals. So just imagine, you are cold, so you stop to put more layers on. This entails taking off your gloves, but not your helmet. Then taking off your riding pants, boots, and regular pants just to put on another layer. It was cold. The Alaska Highway is pretty empty, so the only witnesses were the trees. I have been wearing my thermal top since I left MN, but I hadn’t felt the need for the lower half until today. Brrr.
My heated coat and grips were doing a good job keeping me warm, but my toes started to suffer by lunch. I turned the coat all the way up to the rotisserie setting to try and convince my brain that I wasn’t cold and to send some more blood south. I could feel the burns starting, so I turned the coat back down to a more sensible setting – toasty.
I don’t think the temps were the coldest yet, but close. It was 39-40F most of the day. The real kicker was the strong, blustery wind. It was coming straight off the mountains and across the frozen lakes. Taking turns between a side wind and a head wind. It wore me out in a couple hours. My body was working on auto pilot to keep the bike straight, but my neck started to suffer by lunch time. It felt like the wind was trying to pull my head off.
I was so sick of the wind by then. I just wanted to get out of it. There wasn’t anything around – just the road, trees, and snow. At one of the rest stops I found an empty firewood bin, so I sat inside of it and ate my lunch.
It worked great to get me out of the wind. Just after I sat down, the sun came out which felt great. I sat there for a while after I ate just enjoying the calmness while I watched the trees dance and flail around in the wind above.
Then the snow started again, so it was time to go.
When I wasn’t dancing with the wind, I was dodging potholes and other road hazards.
It made things interesting as large parts of the road were way too straight with nothing to look at but trees.
I did have several great mountain vistas and many frozen lakes and streams to enjoy as well.
One of the more exciting moments was crossing the longest metal deck bridge I’ve ever seen. I slowed down to 50kph (~30mph) and pressed into the pegs while loosening up on the arms. Loose is good, let it wander. Below was a frozen lake, and the cross wind was strong.
About midway a large truck went by and his wake was fun to deal with as well. It was only snowing, so I was lucky. If it was raining, it would have been more interesting. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I wasn’t vertical until I saw the video tonight.
The Alaska highway will cure you of your fear of metal deck bridges if you have one (I don’t). I think I’ve crossed a dozen so far on this trip.
The low point of my day was when a bird (a robin I think) flew into my left mirror. I am pretty sure he died, but I couldn’t see because he bent my mirror out of position. I pulled over and fixed it; poor little guy. I had several close calls prior to that, but this one didn’t make it.
Typical gas station:
Another hardy motorcyclist:
Lots of names and messages in rocks west of Watson Lake for over 50 miles. I didn’t see my name, so this will have to do:
Today was at least 80km shorter than yesterday, but felt longer. I was very tired by the time I rolled into Whitehorse.
I found a place to stay downtown with a view of the mountains.
When I got to my room, I was happy to see the bathtub was large. I started a hot bath and a big cup of hot tea. I soaked and sipped for almost an hour. It was great; I should start ending each day this way. The wind is still going strong though; I can hear it shaking the building as I type.
I am excited to cross back into the US tomorrow. Alaska here I come!!
Day 12 Full Flickr Album 50pics!
Today’s route:
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Other Posts in the series:
Most of the metal deck bridges have been replaced with concrete ones. They just don't seem to have the same character as the older ones. The Spot tracking thing is pretty cool. I may have to get one of those before my trip south. It should start warming up after you hit the border. And I think that you've convinced me that a heated jacket liner would be a good thing to have.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to seeing you!
yes, I saw several of the concrete ones as well. I agree, they don't have the same character. They look the same from a distance. then disappointment.
DeleteSPOT is cool. I am happy with the purchase. I can show it to you on Saturday. The service is not cheap though.
I am looking forward to seeing you as well!
It is amazing how much just the jacket liner can help on cold rides. A warm core will help keep the body 'happier' longer. I know some of the polar bear riders are dead-set against it... but when it comes to putting down mile after mile, it greatly improves the enjoyment and safety of the ride.
DeleteI totally agree. When you are cold, you are distracted thinking about the cold. Not fun, and not safe. It is silly when there are options available to address it. It's one thing to want to learn how to stay warm without electrics. That makes sense, electrics will fail at some point, but against it on principal is silly.
DeleteThose PBCers who are against it should also be against fairings, fuel injection, spark plugs, disc brakes, electric start, and any other technology advance to make riding more enjoyable and safer. /rant.
Great pictures. Thank you for taking the time to post up every day.
ReplyDeleteI can see how the wind would beat you down after a few hours. Good job finding the empty wood bin. Would have been a great place for a nap.
thanks. i am glad you are enjoying them. It is a couple hours each day to get the stuff up.
Deleteyes, getting very beat down by the wind. not fun.
ps: i just found a bunch of comments from you in my spam folder for the early days of the trip. sorry i didn't see them before.
Chris:
ReplyDeleteMy first encounter with metal decked bridges was in the Columbia Gorge "Bridge of the Gods". I tightened up and start wobbling, but that was on a small wheeled scooter, I have larger dia tires now, but they still worry me
Reading your words has given me chills, I can feel the cold. Good for the heated clothing and grips. You can't do without them where you are going. I hope it warms up for you soon and hopefully the wind will stop.
I liked that photo of the road leading to those snow covered mountains ahead
bob
Riding the Wet Coast
My Flickr // My YouTube
They can be intimidating, but being loose is your friend. Like a lot of things on a motorcycle it doesn't come natural. I wiggle my elbows and talk to myself if I start feeling tense. Looks silly, but works for me.
DeleteI did get a break from the wind today. It was NICE! Yes, the heated gear is making this much more doable. I do have a backup plan, but I hope to not use it.
I like that one too.
Whitehorse, that's where the Tenere gathering is happening in July. How was the town? motels? expensive? Really nice pictures but I wouldn't be enjoying the cold. Have you camped anywhere?
ReplyDeletewhitehorse? I didn't spend much time doing anything there. I found a room and worked on the blog then tried to sleep. I am not excited about going there again on my way back down.
DeleteNo, too cold and wet. Most of the campgrounds are also closed for the season, so motels.
I am getting cold just by looking at your pics. Brrrr! But you get clear air, blue skies and a great crisp shadow as reward.
ReplyDeletegetting cold looking at pics? lol. turn up that heated gear :)
DeleteYes, you convey cold very well! That gas station looks rather spartan--actually ancient. I think I need a cup of hot tea now. ;-)
ReplyDeleteIt was an old gas station. that style is common along the route. hot tea sounds great. :)
DeleteI avoided heated gear, mostly because I am an electronics guy and distrust most things electronic. I fully expected my electric gear to fail at the worst possible time and I figured that I'd skimp on carrying thermal gear if I packed electric gear. (I know me.) Now, I'm sort of addicted to my Aerostich electric liner and bib, but I haven't gone on a serious trip since buying the stuff.
ReplyDeleteI have had electrics fail in the middle of winter, so I always have a backup plan now.
DeleteThe electrics are just too nice to not use.
sounds like you need to get yourself in gear and go on a trip.