I slept above the crypt keeper last night, so I didn’t sleep well. When he wasn’t cackling away, he was trying to cough up a lung. It was loud. I was thinking maybe not so many smoke breaks buddy, but what do I know. The result was I didn’t get a very restful sleep, and it put me in a mood. I left Whitehorse like a cat on fire. I put my head down and cranked out the first hundred. I knew I had a longer ride ahead of me, and I just wanted to get across the border which was a mere 300 miles away. The rest was slower.
I know it doesn’t sounds like it should take much time, but this stretch of the Alaska Highway is the one in the worst state. It’s paved, but wow. It was rough. I had heard about the frost heaves as they describe it up here; I was thinking they were the little 1-3 inch bumps we have in the road in Minnesota. I was wrong. Frost heaves up here are much larger. I think they have more in common with sink holes or even sand whoops – just in asphalt.
They are a rapid series of depressions 6-24 inches deep. Enough to make you catch some serious air, if you don’t slow down as the signs constantly say “SLOW”. This part of the road is the bike breaker if you try to rush. There are also the usual potholes, troughs, and edge traps to content with too.
I was constantly swerving, slowing, and changing my line to try and pick the smoothest track. Sometimes that meant even crossing over to the other side of the road or using the shoulder. In a car it would be awful as you would not be able to avoid some hazards; the bike usually made it. This section of the road would be great for some long travel suspension like my WR or a dirtbike.
The mountains were beautiful today. So large and covered in perfectly white snow. They almost looked fake, but they were so imposing. The wind was at my side for the first hour or so, but then thankfully moved to my back. It made the ride much more doable. I was also dressed for the cold temps from the get-go this morning, so that worked out well too. Not that the road gave me much time to think about being cold or to enjoy the scenery. I had to stop for that.
During my lunch stop at Pickhandle Lake, I was drooling into the lake at the awesome mountain vista.
I turned around to go get more food, and then I saw it.
I froze. Wow. It was big.
It didn’t see my at first. It just stood there eating away without a care in the world. Then it stopped and looked right at me.
I said “Hi Moose, you stay over there, and I’ll stay over here.”
Squint and you can see it just to the right of center.
No? Lemme zoom in for you:
She seemed to agree and went back to eating the tree, so I went back to making my lunch. We both kept eyeing each other while we ate. It was nice, but it was not meant to last. A RV drove in and scared it away. bah. Ruined the peace and quiet with the diesel engine noise too. Fortunately, they left quickly, but my moose buddy didn’t come back.
The border crossing went smoothly. It was a toll-booth style just like the previous Canadian crossing. I handed over my passport card. He looked at my motorcycle license plate, asked where I came from, and how long was I gone. I asked if I should take off my helmet as he compared my photo. He said "no” as he squinted at me. “Welcome back to the United States sir.” Sweet. They let me back in! hehe. I hope the next two are as painless.
Hello Alaska!! I had a chocolate bar to celebrate. Yum. Dark chocolate is the best.
I realized a couple things today. I am in yet another timezone. Alaska has it’s own –3hours from Central. This is the furthest north I have been in North America. Sunset is also silly late up here 22:15 (10:15pm) local time. Wow! Sunrise is at 04:41. Lots of daylight.
Tomorrow, I head to Fairbanks. I hate to admit it, but I badly need a new rear tire. I will never hear the end of it I am sure; TheGeezer told me not to use the Q2s, but I’m glad I did. The cold, wet, and snow I rode through and they were still sticky. I would use them again, but have a tire waiting for me in Fairbanks. After the tire, I’m gonna stake out Richard’s house and wait for him to return from Barrow.
After that? I haven’t finished making that up yet. I have two weeks from tomorrow to get to Seattle, and I want to spend some time in Vancouver visiting.
Adam, here is the pic of the log cabin were I am sleeping you wanted:
Gary and Adam, there are two moose pics above, but here is another just for you:
This cutout had me checking my speed. It looked very real from a distance. I was way under. lol.
Colorful mural in Whitehorse:
Motorcycle Friendly:
Day 13 Full Flickr Album (70 pics!)
Video: YouTube Lunch at Pickhandle Lake
Today’s Route:
View Larger Map
Other Posts in the series:
Great job on the picture of the moose. I knew you would do it, but I didn't think you would get it done so quickly. It must be odd, to ride all that way, to then enter your own country again! Kind of cool really.
ReplyDeleteI didn't think I would get it done so quickly either, so I took a picture of a store with a moose above it as a teast. then boom! a few hours later a real one .
Deleteyes, odd to travel so far and end up in your own country. I suppose like the brits going to a colony I guess.
Welcome back to the U.S. The border crossings are pretty straight forward especially at the northern end. Usually there is a long line crossing back into the U.S. near Vancouver that has taken me hours to get through. Beautiful pictures and I especially like the first one with the dock. It'll get a lot more boring as you approach Fairbanks as you move away from the mountains. Also the road gets a lot better now that you are past Tok. If you don't feel like resting on Saturday, Chena Hot Springs is only 60 miles away. Or if you are real ambitious, the Arctic Circle is about 200 miles north...
ReplyDeleteyes, I am starting to get more confidence with them. Seems pretty quiet up in this part of the world. I expect the vancouver/seattle one will be sucky.
DeleteThe dock pic is one of my faves.
Yes, it was boring and straight after Tok. ugh. I thought about the artic circle, but I am still sitting in the brown chair looking out the window. lol.
don't forget my rock from Alaska...
ReplyDeletewho are you again? do I know you? rock from alaska? hmmm.
Deletej/k
Chris:
ReplyDeleteI think you were wise to use a softer compound tire, even though it wears out faster. I worry about loss of traction on those cold roads.
As Richard said, the border crossings down in Vancouver area are a nightmare. It can take 3 hours to get through. I like to look at snow covered mountains but not necessarily ride in them.
the cabin looks very nice
bob
Riding the Wet Coast
My Flickr // My YouTube
i agree on the soft compound tire. the one they just put on is a bit harder. the cassier can chew on it.
Deletei love looking at mountains too. riding in them is great, the snow...
cabin was great. might stay there again on the way back.
That first pic is stunning. It is just so crisp and clear.
ReplyDeleteHooray you've made it to Alaska. Does it seem like it was just yesterday you were home, or does it seem like it has taken forever to get there?
i like that one a lot. I want to print it when i get home to hang on the wall.
Deletehome seems like a long way away. it doesn't feel like i was just home, but not forever either.
DeleteAh, gorgeous, especially that first picture.
ReplyDeletethanks. it is one of my faves from this trip.
Delete