SV650 Chain and Sprocket Replacement

This documents replacing the chain, front sprocket, and rear sprocket on my first gen 2001 SV650. I also decided to change the gearing from the stock 15/45 (front/rear sprocket teeth) to a 15/47. The change lowers the gearing and makes the bike accelerate faster by sacrificing top speed. The larger rear sprocket also requires a longer chain.

I purchased the chain and sprockets as a kit from Sprocket Center. The chain is a D.I.D 525VM2 gold X’ring with 112 links (stock is 110). I didn’t like the gold chain at first, but it has grown on me. The sprockets are 525 Drive Systems Superlite steel.

Tools used for this project:

• 1/2” Breaker bar with 4’ extension (recommend impact wrench instead)
• Torque wrench
• 3/8” ratchet
• sockets:
  • 32mm socket 1/2"
  • 22mm socket 1/2”
  • 8mm socket 3/8"
  • 10mm socket 3/8”
  • 14mm socket 1/2”
• 14mm wrench (for chain tool)
• 12mm wrench (for chain tool)
• 8mm wrench
• chain link tool (riveting)
• Dremel with metal cutting disc
• hammer
• flathead screwdriver
• philips screwdriver
• 6mm allen wrench
• pliers
• liquid wrench / pb blaster
• axle grease 
• ruler
• safety gear
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Steps:

1. Lift the rear tire off the ground. I used a rear stand supporting the SV on the swing arm.
2. Remove the front sprocket cover with the 8mm socket. Set the cover and three bolts aside.
3. Remove the clutch release mechanism with a 10mm socket and unhook it from the clutch cable. There is not need to remove the cable.
   
4. Use the hammer and flathead screwdriver to bend the tabs on the sprocket nut retaining washer back, so the bolt can turn freely.
   
5. If you have frame sliders, remove the one on the left side of the bike with a 17mm socket. This will give the breaker bar room to work. You could skip this step if you have an impact wrench.
   
6. With the 32mm socket, breaker bar, and 4’ pipe extension or 32mm socket and impact wrench loosen the front sprocket bolt. I highly recommend an impact wrench here. You will also likely need to have someone stand on the rear brake to prevent things from spinning. Some people recommend leaving the bike in neutral to avoid straining the transmission; I found I needed the bike in first gear to help keep things from moving as I tried to loosen the front sprocket bolt. I used both PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench to no affect trying to get the bolt loose with the breaker bar. Use an impact wrench!
   
7. Remove the front sprocket nut and washer
   
8. Remove the chain cover with the Philips screwdriver
   
9. Remove the cotter pin on the rear axle bolt with the pliers
   
10. Loosen the rear axle bolt with the 22mm socket and breaker bar.
    
11. Use the allen wrench to loosen the chain adjusters all the way.
    
12. Push the rear wheel forward to get all the chain slack possible.
    
13. Pull the chain off the rear sprocket and hang it over the rear swing arm.
    
14. Pull the axle out towards the exhaust side.
    
15. Put the rear tire down on something soft (carpet) with the rotor side down, so the sprocket is facing up.
    
16. Remove the five nuts on the rear sprocket with the 14mm socket and breaker bar.
    
17. Remove the rear sprocket
    
18. The new sprocket compared to the old one:
    
19. This is a good time to really clean the rear tire. A microfiber cloth and WD40 easily take care of the grime.
    before:
    after:
20. Pull the sprocket coupling off the axle top like shown and add some axle grease.
    
21. Replace the coupling and put the new rear sprocket on. Torque the rear sprocket nuts to 60 Nm.
    
22. Slide the chain off the front sprocket and remove the front sprocket.
    
23. Front sprocket old and new compared:
    
24. Use the dremel and metal cutting disc to cut the chain off the bike. Cut the links, not the rivets. It should cut quite quickly. Use the safety goggles here as there will be hunks of flying hot metal.
    
25. The cut chain should look like this:
    
26. This is very embarrassing:
    
27. Install the new front sprocket
    
28. This is also a great time to clean the swing arm
    
29. Grease the rear axle
    
30. Reinstall the rear axle, axle spacers, and rear wheel. Mine slipped in easily, but if it sticks, give the axle a couple taps from a rubber mallet or a chunk of wood.
    
31. My chain adjustment bolts were corroded and stripped, so I went to the hardware store and purchased two new ones:
    
32. The new D.I.D. 525VM2 112 link chain
    
33. Wrap the chain around the new sprockets. I found it easiest to keep the master link on the top.
    
34. With the chain tool, press the master link together
    
35. Change the press plate to the rivet head on the chain tool, and mushroom the rivet heads out.
    
36. The tool should be flush like this before adding pressure on the rivets
    
37. Torque the front sprocket nut to 145 Nm and bend the lock washer around one face of the sprocket nut.
38. Adjust the chain slack with the ruler. It should be 20-30mm with the bike on the side stand.
39. Adjust the chain tighteners until the chain is flows straight front to back. A chain alignment tool really helps with this job.
40. Torque the rear axle nut to 65 Nm and replace the cotter pin
41. Reinstall the clutch release mechanism and front sprocket cover.
42. I found it necessary to also readjust the clutch lever free play after moving things around. It should be 10-15mm and the clutch release mechanism screw (in the center) should be turned 1/4 turn out.
43. Check the chain slack after 50 miles and again after another 200.
    
44. Enjoy your new chain and sprockets!

Written by Chrisluhman for Everyday Riding. All rights reserved.