This post documents replacing the stock BMW air filter with a K&N BM-0400 on my 2001 BMW R1150GS. The process is the same for the stock filter. The K&N filter costs slightly more ($40 vs $25) than the stock, but is washable and reusable. It should be the last air filter I buy for this bike.
Other users claim more power from the K&N vs the stock. I didn’t have enough time to ride the bike before I changed the filter, so I can’t comment on that.
This job should take less than fifteen minutes.
Tools I used:
- torque wrench
- 3/8” socket wrench
- 6mm allen key socket (for use with torque wrench)
- 13mm wrench
- Philips screwdriver with PH2 head
- K&N BM-0400 Air Filter
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1) Remove the seats and right sidecover.
2) Use the 6mm allen key socket and the 13mm wrench to remove the bolt and nut holding the gas tank on. The nut on the back falls off easily, so be ready to grab it with your finger.
3) I put the bolt and nut back on, so I didn’t lose it while finishing the project.
4) A small plastic cup or peanut butter jar works great to hold the gas tank up without removing it.
5) This is the airbox
6) push the clip in on the left side of the sensor and pull up slowly to remove it
7) This one just pulls off.
7) using the Philips screwdriver with PH2 head remove the two screws holding the airbox cover on.
8) Tilt the cover up and pull towards the back of the bike to remove.
9) Remove the filter from the airbox. The stock BMW air filter is pictured below. Mine is quite dirty and looks to have been chewed up by a critter.
This was the condition of the air filter when I bought the bike used. Not good.
K&N filter on the left and the stock filter on the right. The K&N is smaller, but the gasket on the bottom fits over the hole in the airbox just right.
10) Vacuum any junk in the bottom of the airbox
11) Install the new air filter
12) Reinstall the air box cover. Notice the two small tabs on the back of the cover. They fit into the slots on the rear top of the airbox. Set them first.
13) Reinstall the two screws and confirm the airbox cover is sealed correctly by gently tugging on the rear and sides. It should not move.
14) Reinstall the sensors from step 6 and 7.
15) Remove the fuel tank holder and tighten the nut and bolt.
I found it easiest to hold the nut with my finger and tighten with the wrench.
16) Torque the fuel tank bolt to 22 N-m
17) Go for a ride!
Good write up Chris, I didnt have to remove sensors or move the tank up on my RT, got lucky with that design I guess.
ReplyDeleteI used K&N on my RT, worked great, just don't over-oil it!
dom
Colorado Motorcycle Travel Examiner
Redleg's Rides
Dom: Thanks! You could probably leave the sensors on with this one too, but I wanted to get the cover out of the way to clean once I saw how dirty everything was.
ReplyDeleteI've heard about over-oiling the K&N. I learned the hard way on my WR250R too. The first time I cleaned/oiled it, it wouldn't start. It wasn't fun then, but is quite funny to me now!
"This was the condition of the air filter when I bought the bike used. Not good." Nicely understated :)
ReplyDeleteOut of curiosity, what were the little blueish-green things in the filter housing? And how did they get there?
ReplyDeleteRichard
Blueish green things: Rat/mouse poison pellets.
ReplyDeleteKeith: :)
ReplyDeleteRichardM: Not sure what they are or how they got there. I suspect a rodent had lived there at one time based on the fuzz present, but no sign of them now. I'm going to go with Mike's statement: poison pellets.
Mike: I have a R1200GS maint dvd that came with my 1150 set if you're interested in borrowing it.