Tools I used:
- socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- oil catch pan
- 2.4L – 2.7L of 10W40 Synthetic or 10W40 Motorcycle Oil
- Oil Filter (KN-138 or HF138) I prefer KN-138
- torque wrench (optional)
- funnel (optional)
- gloves (optional)
- rear stand (optional)
- includes affiliate links to support the blog
1) Get the engine warmed up to make the oil drain out easier and more completely. Then put the bike on a rear stand. I prefer the rear stand over the side stand as it helps the oil drain out. You could also hold the bike while it is draining.
2) Place the oil catch pan under the bike
3) Locate the oil drain bolt on the left side of the engine underneath.
Loosen it with a 14mm socket or wrench. I usually brake it loose with the wrench and finish by hand. Go slow towards the end as the oil will come out quickly and it will be hot.
4) Loosen the oil filter which is located on the front of the engine under the bike.
This can almost always be done by hand. If it is stuck, use an oil filter wrench or buy the K&N KN-138 next time and use a normal wrench.
Once it is loose, the oil will start to leak out. It will be hot, so be careful. Be careful of the exhaust header which will also be hot. This is why I like gloves.
5) Locate the oil fill cap on the right side of the engine.
Remove it to assist in draining the oil.
6) After the oil has finished draining, put a new filter on. I like the KN-138. Tighten it by hand to snug then about a 1/4 to 1/2 past. If you use a wrench, it will likely get too tight and be difficult to remove later. I also like to add a thin coat of oil on the seal before I put it on the engine.
7) Replace the oil drain bolt and use a new crush washer if necessary. Tighten to 21 Nm or until you feel the crush washer crush, and then a tiny bit more.
8) I use a funnel to avoid making a mess when filling the engine with oil.
Use a good oil that is designed for motorcycles 10W40.
Fill until the oil level is in between the two lines (F and L) when the bike is level. A 99-2002 (K1-K2) will use 2.4L of oil with a filter change and 2003+ (K3+) will use 2.7L of oil with a filter change. The oil level will change slightly after starting the engine.
9) Replace the oil filler cap
10) Start the engine and let it run for a minute. Check for leaks at the oil drain plug and oil filter. Tighten if necessary.
11) Go for a ride!
Other SV650 Guides:
Good writeup Chris, I just did my first oil change on the V-Strom and it was very similar....and insanely easy.
ReplyDeletedom
Redleg's Rides
Colorado Motorcycle Travel Examiner
Dom: Thanks. VERY easy! :) I wish they were all as easy.
ReplyDeleteEasy it might be, but Suzuki recommends every 4,000 miles? Thats a little too often for my liking!
ReplyDeleteJust did one on my Concours, and like Dom's, it was very easy. Really, really simple. I did need to go out and buy a strap wrench, though. I think Thor put the oil filter in place.
ReplyDeleteIt's a niche market, but it's good to see someone is making quality, picture by picture writeups for your machine. I wish there was more of this for the old stuff. I had to learn the old fashioned way - by breaking everything.
This totally depends on the ride, I'd have to say. Now that I've driven my Kawasaki I'd be more inclined to take my father-in-law's Goldwing out for a run. But considering my only bike experience was on sub-liter class machines, it seemed like too much (particularly weight) when compared to my little machines.
I would agree, people worry a lot about wrecking machines. Be careful, know your limits. I would have reservations about jumping on an unrestored Vincent... but if they offer, consider saying yes.
Brady
Behind Bars - Motorcycles and Life
http://www.behindbarsmotorcycle.com/
Dear Chris:
ReplyDeleteI love the concept of the sight glass for checking the oil... Which I also have on my K75. There the similarity ends, however, and the oil changing process is lot more involved on my own machine. How I wish it was as simple as your illustrated process. And somehow, I always manage to get oil on something. Last time, I spilled about two drops — from the fresh bottle — onto the floor. (The area was about the size of a postage stamp.) That was the exact spot I found with the tip of my cane 10 minutes later. I nearly careened into the wall.
Fondest regards,
Jack • reep • Toad
Twisted Roads
Gary: LOL my tires don't last much past that on the SV either.
ReplyDeleteBrady: Thanks! I've learned the hard way on my machines too. Big bikes (500lbs+,1000cc+) are a different beast. I'm still getting to grips with my R1150GS. The SV is still my favorite. Just more fun.
Dear Jack: Sight glass is great. I wish the Ural had one. It just has the silly dipstick. I would imagine you have a bit of tupperware to remove to change your K75's oil.
I know I shouldn't have laughed at your comment, but I had this cartoon flash through my head of someone slipping on some oil and crashing through the wall with the feet kicking in the air. I hope you didn't hurt yourself or your bike with your oil induced adventure.